It uses the custom Slice shape rndSq16.
Notecard: 2LaserGun-SCULPT

Sliceshape notecard: rndsq16

fivesinger Zenovka

How can i fix this?

Unlike most tutorials you’ll find, which assume that the object file you’re importing is coming in fully textured and all you want to do is light and tweak it to produce the ultimate 2D photo, here I’ll be showing you how I made a new texture and exported it from PS for importing into Second Life.

Crucial fact # 1: Only the ‘Extended’ version of CS4 has 3D capability.

Crucial fact # 2: Not every imported sculpty you paint on in PS will produce a sculpt texture that will co-incide with SL. You actually have to construct your sculpt a certain way.  For SS users this poses some problems, so read on.  I recently went through the painstaking process of stamping an intricate sculpt, only to discover that part of the texture ended up upside-down.   I’m not sure if this is because of how the object file is produced but perhaps some changes could be made there which will prevent this from being an issue in the future …

In the meantime, if you’re going to be using PS CS4 3D to texture your sculpty, always make sure you build it front-on with slice 0 at the ‘top’ and any cross-activity going from left to right.  Or if your sculpty does start with slice 0 at the bottom (as is the default in Sculpt Studio) if you need to ‘cross’ the sculpty, cross it from right-to left (and the resulting texture will be upside down but in the right sequence).  If it still comes out wrong despite your best efforts, you’ll have to work out which section of the texture isn’t right and flip it.  You may also need to rotate it 180 degrees in sl.

Now I’m not 100% sure that the rules I’ve come up with are spot on, but after thinking about what happened to my sculpt texture, it was the conclusion I woke up with this morning :).  If you discover situations where this doesn’t fix the problem, or come up with more definitive rules, please let me know and I’ll update this post accordingly.

Step 1 - Open your obj file

Sculpt Studio produces an obj file every time we make a sculpty.  Other sculptors will need to export an obj file from whatever program they’re using.  For 32×32 sculpts, Sculpty Paint can also export the sculpt as an obj file.

Step 2 - Set up PS to work with 3D (should only need to do this once)

Set up PS CS4 for Sculpty Painting

1. Select the Advanced 3D workspace (Window/ Workspace/ Advanced 3D from the menu)
2. Click on the Scene Explorer button.  (Small square button which has a tiny folder tree icon on it).
3. Change ‘Paint On’ to ‘Diffuse’.  (Check also 3D/3D Paint Mode/Diffuse in the menu)
4. Unless you have a high powered pc, leave the Anti-Alias set to ‘Draft’.

Cam Tool

Step 4 - Import a photo or graphic to apply to the sculpt

If you prefer to paint right onto the sculpty, you can do that too, using all PS’s painting power, what I’m describing here is the method you need to use to transfer a photo or other graphic onto the sculpty.

1. Place Image - ‘Place’ a graphic - firstly put it on a layer above the 3D object.
2. Cut and paste - Using selection tools, cut out the piece you’re interested in using, and paste to a new layer.  You can hide the placed image now, until you need to come back to it to grab another piece.
3. Transform to match - Using Transformation Tools (Edit/Transform) Change the elements of the graphic you’re going to be using to approximate the size and rotation of the sculpty.  I usually do this directly over the top of the sculpty which has been rotated the way I need it.  This is really the most fiddly time consuming bit, because you need to get the sculpty cam rotated in a way that will take paint first.  The ‘Warp’ transformation tool is very useful for the types of crazy transforming you’re probably going to have to do.  Naturally its best to try to minimise distortion of the image you’re stamping from.
4. Set up the workspace for stamping - Now drag the image section away from the sculpty and place in a spot you will be able to see at the same time as you’re applying the image to the sculpt.  Also drag the layer below the sculpt object.
5. Stamp the image onto the sculpty - Select the Stamp Tool from the tool box and make sure that ‘Sample’ is set to ‘Current and Below’.

Show Clone Source Panel

I’m assuming you already know how to use the PS Stamp Tool - the ‘Current and Below’ setting is apparently new especially for 3d painting, and very handy because you don’t need to swap layers, the other thing thats useful is to turn on ‘Show Overlay’ in the Clone Source panel (Windows/Clone Source).

I was bored the other day, and what better to do when you’re bored, than to play with Sculpt Studio.
I’m no musician, so I have no use for it, but if you’d like to play around with the trumpet, feel free to grab it and make it your own.

Only uses standard circle and pole slices, so no additional downloads are necessary.
Have fun.

currently, the slice repeator, mirror, mover, etc, can’t have positions and rotations pasted to it like you would between slices. i discovered a work around for this. Rez a slice, “open” it so you create a folder in your inventory from it’s contents. Rez the tool you want to add the ability to. Drag and drop all of the controller scripts (not sure if all are really needed, just did it to be sure) and the menu script, the menu slave script isn’t needed. make sure you set the scripts to running with the tools menu. delete the original tool from the mat. Take the modified tool, and drop it into the contents of the mat. Then when you need to use it, find it in the menu as usual, click it, and you will receive 2 dialogs. the regular tool menu, and a “slice” menu. you can copy and paste as if it were a slice (even size if you want that). now that i’ve brought it up on here (and conor Kaligawa mentioned it in group chat), hopefully it can be added as an official feature

snapshot

surface texture

bed-sculpt

this was my first sculpt studio thingie, now dedicating it to the public

surface texture

sculpt map

coordinate-cross-sculpt